New Aquarium Cycling
A Very Basic Explanation
The Nitrogen Cycle is the establishment of beneficial bacteria in the aquarium filter media that will help in the conversion of ammonia to nitrite and then the conversion of nitrite to nitrates.
This process can take from 3 weeks to 2 months or longer to complete.
It is vital for anyone planning on keeping aquarium fish to understand this process. Learning about this process will help you to be successful in keeping fish and it should definitely improve your chances when keeping tropical fish. The only real way to monitor the nitrogen cycle is to purchase an aquarium water test kit that will test for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.
At the beginning test your aquarium water every other day and write down your readings. You will first see ammonia levels rising. The following weeks you will see the nitrite levels rising and then ammonia levels dropping.
After a few more weeks you should see the nitrate levels rising and the nitrite levels dropping. When you no longer detect ammonia or nitrites but you can detect nitrates you can assume that it is safe to add your tropical fish slowly don't make the mistake of loading your new tank to the max
Nitrogen Cycle Stage 1
Ammonia is introduced into the aquarium via tropical fish waste and uneaten food. The tropical fish waste and food will break down into either ionized ammonium (NH4) or un-ionized ammonia (NH3). Ammonium is not harmful to tropical fish but ammonia is quite fatal in doses.
Stage 2
Bacteria called nitrobacter will develop within your filter media they will convert the nitrites into nitrate Nitrites are as toxic to tropical fish as ammonia if not more so. You will see the Nitrites level start to rise towards the 3rd week once it has peaked it will start to fall this level needs to be at zero after the peak at this point you will have a low Nitrate reading but a zero Ammonia & Nitrite reading this needs to be checked and double checked this is the point where your aquarium filter is cycled.
Stage 3
Soon, bacteria called nitrosomonas will develop within the aquarium filter media they will oxidize the ammonia in the tank, essentially eliminating it. The by-product of ammonia oxidation is Nitrates. So we no longer have ammonia & nitrite in the tank, but we now have another toxin to deal with - Nitrates are not as toxic to tropical fish as ammonia use a test kit, you should be able to see the nitrate levels rise around the end of the fourth week.
Nitrate is still harmful in large amounts. The best method to maintain safe levels of nitrates in your aquarium is to perform regular weekly partial water changes as follows once your tank is established & cycled you will need to monitor your tank water for high nitrate levels and perform regular partial water changes weekly approx 25% of your aquariums total volume.
There are other methods to control nitrates in aquariums besides water changes although live aquarium plants will use up some of the nitrates but not so that you don't have to carry out regular water changes. You will always have a low level Nitrate reading in your aquarium this is normal.
A Quick Easy Check Ideal Test Readings Below
Ammonia 0
Nitrate 0.5 - 10
Nitrite 0
Getting The Nitrogen Cycle Started
There are two ways to get the aquarium cycle started, either with fish or without fish.
Starting The Nitrogen Cycle With Fish
This is not the preferred way to get the nitrogen cycle started because the fish are being exposed to ammonia and nitrites during this process. Many fish can not and will not make it through the cycling process. Often the fish will become stressed & disease will start to break out.
Using fish to cycle is not a good idea and you may be throwing your money (on dead fish) out the window. There are better methods
Starting The Nitrogen Cycle Fishless
Option 1:
Using Fish Food
Drop in a few flakes every 12 hours. As the food decomposes it will release ammonia. You will have to continue to "feed" the tank throughout the process to keep it going.
Option 2:
Use a small piece of raw fish or a raw shrimp
Drop a 2 inch by 1 inch chunk of raw fish or a raw shrimp into the tank. As it decomposes it will release ammonia into the tank.
Option 3:
Use 100% pure ammonia.
Using a dropper, add 5 drops of ammonia per 40 litres of aquarium water. If you don't get an ammonia reading with your test kit, add some more drops until you start to see an ammonia reading. Keep track of how many drops you've used so you can repeat this process daily. Continue to dose the tank with ammonia until you start to get nitrite readings with your test kit. Once you can detect nitrites you should only add 3 drops of ammonia per 40 litres of aquarium water, or if you added more drops originally to get an ammonia reading cut the amount of drops used in half. Continue this process daily until you get nitrate readings with your test kit. Do a 30% water change and your tank is ready.
Option 4:
Use filter media from an established and cycled tank
This is the best and fastest way to go simply transfer a full cycled filter into your new aquarium - ensure that the water temperature is near to the original tank temperature.
Option 5:
Bacteria culture product are available to buy these will give your filter a kick start.
Once the cycle has started only add one or two fish at a time. Wait a couple of weeks before adding more fish. This will give your tank the time it needs to catch up with the increased bio-load patience are vital here, after all you want your tank to be a pleasure for many years not a nightmare over night
Remember A Quick Easy Check Ideal Test Readings Below
Ammonia 0
Nitrate 0.5 - 10
Nitrite 0
Tiny advise Plan Of Action - if for some reason you get high readings on a fully cycled tank do a big water change straight away to dilute the toxins, check your filter is working fully, reduce the amount of food you feed, be sure your tank is not over loaded.